Eel vermicelli in Hanoi: The warmth of the old town in each vermicelli

1 Small shop in the heart of Hanoi

Address:

– Facility 1: 1 foot holding

– Facility 2: 72 Vu Trong Phung

– Facility 3: 48 Nguyen Son

At the crossroads of Chan Cam and Ly Quoc Su, where the flow of people did not stop, there was a bar without sophisticated signs nor need to call. Yet from morning to afternoon, both Westerners and guests still queue to wait for a bowl of eel vermicelli. Small shop, low chair, space just cozy for forty people. But in the heart of Hanoi people, it is an irreplaceable part of memories.

In the list of Bib Gourmand published by Michelin Guide on June 5, the eel vermicelli was first called. A late recognition but worthy after more than three decades of efforts to silently honor Hanoi specialties.

2 The process of formation and development

2.1 A starting from the street vendor

In the corner of Chan Cam street, there is a small shop, where people queue to find the old taste of Hanoi. Eel vermicelli with no brilliant signs nor need noisy advertising. That vermicelli, simple but contains nearly forty years of a original Hanoi woman – Ms. Vu Thi Lan.

In 1987, when her first daughter was three, Lan started carrying vermicelli throughout Hang Trong, Hang Gai and Hang powder streets. Ms. Lan, who liked eel vermicelli since she was a young woman. When pregnant, she morning this dish, went to eat everywhere, then started cooking at home. She and her husband choose eel, filter bones, fry each batch, cook each pot of broth.

In those days, learning how to cook, listening to each customer’s opinion, she filtered every word, each response to gradually find the recipe that made people eat once and remember forever. Since then, her Hanoi eel vermicelli has been constantly improved in a natural and persistent way, as the way Hanoi people preserve the old style.

2.2 From small sidewalks to international titles

After nearly 15 years of peddling, she stopped at a corner of Chan Cam sidewalk. The name of the shop is Minh Lan, combining the name of the couple. But gradually, people used to call by the familiar name: eel vermicelli.

It was less than ten square meters wide, the space was narrow but always busy with tourists in Hanoi. There are peak days of 700 bowls of vermicelli served, of which many are foreign visitors. They came, ate once, then returned next year just to find the taste that had touched the memory.

2.3 Keeping the job, keeping the soul of the street

For nearly four decades, since a bowl of vermicelli was only 300 dong so far, 45,000 dong, Lan still holds one thing: not selling brands, not disclosing the secret. She once refused invitations to buy the formula because she believed: “What I built in my whole life, so I left for my children and grandchildren.”

2.4 When Michelin called a small restaurant

No one expected the simple eel vermicelli shop to catch the eye of Michelin Guide, the most prestigious culinary handbook in the world. With the assessment of “the gem in the heart of the old town”, the eel vermicelli became one of the five representatives of Hanoi present on the Bib Gourmand list, which honored the delicious food addresses at reasonable prices.

Upon receiving an invitation from Michelin, Lan did not believe it. She hesitated to go away, nor did she think that a small shop was like that she was noticeable. It was not until her daughter persuaded: “It was a recognition for her mother” that she accepted and left Da Nang. Bring the pride of a life of cooking with all sincerity.

3 The rich flavor of each eel vermicelli bowl

3.1 The secret is in the fire

Delicious eel vermicelli is in fried technique. Each time it takes half an hour, keep the fire evenly, not to burn, not to absorb oil. When put on the bowl, the eel is crispy but not hard, fragrant but not sick, eat until the end still retains the original crispy.

Eel bones and secretions are pureed, cooked into broth. There is no main noodles, no pork bone stew, only natural sweetness from eel. According to Vietnamtravelio, it is also a unique formula that creates a special feature that is nowhere of eel vermicelli.

3.2 Eel countryside, vermicelli, broth as anchor rope holding the old flavor

The main ingredient that makes the soul of the dish is “eel” ordered by Ms. Lan from the countryside of Bac Ninh. Not the common type of eel is common but small copper eel, fragrant meat, rich, remain crispy without flour. That is what makes many diners remember forever.

Vermicelli is taken from Cu Da craft village, famous for crispy, flexible, golden vermicelli yarn and characteristic aroma. After blanching through boiling water, vermicelli still retains moderate toughness, not friable, not crushed.

The pot of water is always placed next to the mistress, hot from morning till noon. Pure water, fragrant eel flavor, cooked from pureed eel and eel bone according to its own formula, no industrial sweeteners, bringing a cool and natural taste. That clear water is not simmered from pig bones like many other places, but the secretion and eel bone are pureed, carefully filtered, and simmer slowly. That is the taste that makes Michelin appraisers stop.

3.3 Eel vermicelli and feet are filled with memories

Each mixed vermicelli is prepared by the owner of the eel vermicelli shop. Ingredients include vermicelli, bean sprouts, herbs, papaya, a little cucumber, carrots, onion, and a piece of fried eel. All blend in a bowl of crafted sauce from vinegar, sugar, soy sauce and spices, creating a dish that is both crispy and crispy, without causing it even though eating to the last piece.

3.4 Quality is a promise to customers

The shop is not wide, only a few dozen seats have air conditioning, but the speed of service is fast. At peak hours and noon, the shop was still so crowded that there was no room, but few complained because it was not long. The dried eels are carefully packed abroad, such as bringing the homeland to send to the expatriates.

Ms. Lan always thought: Keeping the trust of people not by following the majority, but by loyalty to the root value. Despite being honored by Michelin, she kept the principle of “doing real, cooking”. That is why eel vermicelli is not only a dish, but also part of Hanoi culinary heritage.

4 Every season, the patrons go home every year

According to travel experience, the season of guests come to the eel vermicelli with regular holding because the eel vermicelli bowl is smoky and fragrant. In the summer, cool eel salad to the throne, with bean sprouts, cucumbers, laksa leaves, roasted peanuts and sweet and sour fish sauce. Only a few minutes to have a bowl of full, full of taste.

Foreign guests also love this shop. Someone showed off photos that had eaten here as a culinary victory. Every day, the restaurant serves 500 to 700 bowls, the rush hour must mobilize up to 10 employees.

Eel vermicelli is not merely a dish. It is the breath of the old town, the memory of many generations of Hanoi, the vivid evidence of a silent but durable culinary love. There is a delicious eel vermicelli, a real flavor, and a persistent woman preserves it for a lifetime. Hopefully the reader of Vietnamtravelio is ready to come here and enjoy the unique cuisine of Hanoi.