Hue always appears in the minds of travelers with the quiet beauty of ancient mausoleums, the gentleness of the Perfume River and especially its exquisite cuisine down to every detail. When mentioning ancient capital cuisine, people often think of Hue beef noodle soup – a dish known as the “soul” of this land.

Hue cold rice beef noodle soup: A rustic dish filled with the soul of the ancient capital 2

Cold rice beef noodle soup contains a whole sky of memories of Hue people, demonstrating the frugality associated with the pace of life of this land. Illustration photo: VNExpress

However, behind the luxurious bowls of vermicelli in big restaurants, there is an extremely unique and popular variation that contains a sky of memories for the people here: cold rice vermicelli with beef. The seemingly lame combination of the quintessential beef noodle soup and the cold grains of rice left over from the previous night’s dinner creates a strange attraction, turning a dish that was once considered “hunger relief” into a specialty that makes anyone who tastes it once linger.

To understand why Hue people have this strange way of eating, we have to go back in time to the 80s and 90s of the last century. During that period, the lives of people in the Central region in general and Hue people in particular were still very difficult. Cold rice from the previous night’s meal is never wasted, workers often take advantage of it to eat with a bowl of beef noodle soup in the morning to make sure they have a full stomach before starting a long day of work in the fields or yards.

The way of eating vermicelli with rice is not simply to fill the stomach, but it also deeply reflects the culinary philosophy and thrifty lifestyle, appreciating the pearl of heaven of the people of the ancient capital. In the spiritual culture of Hue people, stir-fried dishes offered to ancestors are often prepared very elaborately, and beef noodle soup is the crystallization of the most quintessential things.

Taking advantage of cold rice to blend with that broth is not only economical but also an intersection between two culinary worlds: one side is a rich noodle dish, the other side is traditional dried rice grains. This combination brings an abundant source of energy, helping workers have enough endurance to withstand the harsh sun and wind of the Central region.

Many people wonder why they don’t use hot rice to blow while eating, but it must be cold rice. The secret lies in the structure of the rice grain. Hue people often choose rice with moderate elasticity, cook it and then let it cool completely so that the rice grains firm up and separate from each other.

Hue cold rice beef noodle soup: A rustic dish filled with the soul of the ancient capital 3

Cold rice when eaten with beef noodles will become richer, more succulent, and very delicious. Illustration photo: Thanh Nien Newspaper

When those cold, somewhat dry rice grains are dropped into a bowl of hot beef noodle soup, they will not crumble or cloud the clarity of the broth. On the contrary, the rice grains will slowly absorb the essence from the shrimp paste, lemongrass and stewed bones, becoming rich and succulent but still retaining an interesting chewy texture. The temperature contrast between the blazing heat of the broth and the gentle coolness of the cold rice grains creates a very special taste-stimulating feeling that hot rice can never achieve.

In the heart of the modern ancient capital, where beef noodle shops have sprung up like mushrooms with all kinds of style variations, Canh Van restaurant has quietly existed for more than 3 decades as a “living heritage” of popular cuisine. This is a rare place where you can find the most authentic taste of cold beef noodle soup, where time seems to stop behind mossy walls.

Canh Van Restaurant is not located on a flashy main street, but is nestled modestly in an alley at 198B, 4 Chi Lang Street. This is the area near Gia Hoi Bridge and Trinh Cong Son Street – places associated with the ancient cultural breath of Hue.

Even though the route is somewhat winding, the restaurant never stops seeing customers. The restaurant’s space has the popular style of the ancient capital with an airy garden, located near the river so the atmosphere is always cool and pleasant. The simple tables and chairs and the chatter of mothers and aunts create an extremely close space, making diners feel like they are eating in their own family kitchen.

Hue cold rice beef noodle soup: A rustic dish filled with the soul of the ancient capital 4

Canh Van cold rice beef noodle soup is one of the oldest restaurants in the ancient capital. Illustration photo: VNExpress

What has made Canh Van brand for the past 30 years is the “top of the top” broth pot. The broth here is simmered entirely from beef and pork bones for many hours to get the natural sweetness. When you taste it, you will clearly feel the characteristic aroma of lemongrass and the unmistakable rich taste of Hue shrimp paste – the soul of this dish.

A bowl of vermicelli here is extremely “affordable”, only ranging from 15,000 VND to 40,000 VND. However, each bowl is filled with quality toppings such as soft, rare beef, crispy beef, simmered pork trotters, blood and especially golden, fragrant crab patties.

The biggest difference that makes Canh Van restaurant stand out from hundreds of other restaurants is the braised pork rind dish. The pork rinds are fried to a crispy golden color, then simmered with chili and spices that are spicy, salty and sweet in harmony. When eaten with cold rice and beef noodle soup, the greasy taste of pork rinds mixed with the spicy taste of chili creates an irresistible attraction, making diners want to eat it forever.

Hue cold rice beef noodle soup: A rustic dish filled with the soul of the ancient capital 5

Pork fat is one of the things that makes Canh Van restaurant loved by many gourmets. Illustration photo: VNExpress

And of course, the soul of the meal is the bowl of cold rice. At Canh Van restaurant, when you order a bowl of vermicelli, the aunties will give you a small bowl of cold rice for you to eat until you are full. The most heartwarming thing is that if you still don’t have enough, you can absolutely ask for more rice and the aunties are always ready to serve you for free with a friendly smile. That bowl of rice is not only food, but also the love and meaning that the people of Hue have for travelers from far away.

Cold rice beef noodle soup is a unique cultural experience, helping visitors understand more about the soul of the people of Hue: thrifty but generous, simple but extremely sophisticated. Visiting Canh Van restaurant, you will not only enjoy a delicious bowl of vermicelli but also interact with kind Hue mothers and aunts, and listen to everyday stories in their characteristic warm voices. Let Canh Van cold rice beef noodle soup be on your “must try” list when packing your suitcase to travel to Hue. Don’t be afraid to get up early, don’t be afraid to go deep into the small masterpiece, because your reward is the taste of the honesty and wonderful hospitality of the people here.